Roskilde Festival's discussion forum

In order for everyone to understand your posts, you are encouraged to write in English.

You must be logged in to post. Log in eller create a user profile.

Quick guide for the search
X


  • Wildcard-Search
    With the help of a so-called wildcard you can look for several search words, which have the same word beginning. If you search e.g. for "Typo*", the search will find everything that begins with "Typo" : Typo3, Typoscript, Typocode, Typo3user... etc.
  • Negative search
    If you do not want to find certain expressions in your search result, you can cause this with placing a hyphen in front. Terms containing this phrase are excluded from the search result.
  • Search for user
    It is possible to limit the search result on answers of certain users. In addition to the retrieval query attach still another "user:username" and find the results, which were written by this certain user. If the username could not be found this will be ignored.
Quick guide for Indexing
X
 Quick guide for the search
Topic with many replies

Create your own festival stereo


Author Message
Written on: 09.06.2009 01:51
ThokN
Posts: 77
Ahh I see. Then there should be no problems at all icon_smile.gif

Well Saturnus writes: "A standard 12V 7Ah SLA you can buy for about 20 euro is enough for 20 hours of continious playing time at maximum volume with the amp I use"

so that is pretty impressive. With your battery I will guess that you will not have to recharge at all during the festival.

We will not either, as we have 2 of the 7Ah batteries and the continuous charge from the solar panel, but this is probably a bit more expensive solution than yours, which is necessary for us to keep it portable. We WILL run around with it and blast everybody away in the vicinity icon_biggrin.gif

Keep in mind that you can not directly exchange Ah from the Sealed Lead Acid battery type into the car battery type like yours. You will not get 95/7*20 hours=271 hours, as I've learned that only 60% or so of the power will be usable from a car battery in a setup like these portable boomboxes.



[This article was edited 1 times, at last 09.06.2009 at 01:58.]
Written on: 09.06.2009 10:14
Deleted user Whoooa, this thread is alive again!

I'm working on some designs for next year.... Maybe if I run into unforeseen problems I'll have to come to you guys for help : D

I will post the designs when I feel they are done. Right now I have a problem with the center of gravity being much too high up, due to poor engineer's intuition as I've been drinking while designing the damn thing. I'm also counting on reading a textbook or two before I dive into the nitty gritty electronics. Big up to everyone that's taken the bare-bones approach to their boomboxes, I'm looking forward to seeing them.
Written on: 09.06.2009 11:32
Sune
Posts: 37
ThokN: Thanks, hope you're right that it will last the entire festival icon_smile.gif I think I'll look in to a smaller battery + solar power for next years upgrade, the initial build is already over budget.

Just got my amplifier a few hours ago, so if yours was also shipped to DK then you probably should get it today as well. Not much fun in an amplifier without speakers etc. though icon_frown.gif

Emilius: Try to do it sober, that'll probably work out better =)
Written on: 09.06.2009 12:52
ThokN
Posts: 77
Haha it's funny that you have been so drunk that you got the design wrong icon_lol.gif I hope you can fix it. But yeah, just ask if there is any problems.

@Sune: That sounds great! I really hope I'll have it today too, or else I will get quite worried. I think we will test it with the speakers on thursday or friday.
Written on: 10.06.2009 15:24
Max
Posts: 92
Emilius wrote:

Max,

I don't think there is such thing as a 120v AC battery. If there is, it's probably a 12 or 24 volt DC battery with an inverter (a device that lets you plug a mains socket into it). Also keep in mind that we use 220~230v AC in Europe.

Inverters are pretty inefficient. This means you will get much less out of your battery than you could otherwise.

A much better solution would be to check the battery compartment of your ghetto blaster, and try to come up with a solution where you're pretty much just plugging in a better battery. If it uses 8 D-cells, you're in luck, because at 1.5 volts each, this adds up to 12 volts, which is about what a car battery can supply.

If this is the case, all you need to do is pull a wire from the plus side of the battery, to the plus side of the battery compartment (where the last cell dimple goes) and a wire from minus to the other end. This has worked for us before, albeit with a pussy boombox and 2 liberated 6 volt roadworks batteries.


Hey Emilius (or anyone with some advice)

I checked the ghetto blaster and it takes 10 x D so needs 15V to run. Is my only option to use a 24V battery or can an inverter output 230V AC from a 12V battery? Either way does anyone know a good place in CPH to pick one up at a reasonable price?

The battery compartment consists of springs on plastic so if i want to scrap using an inverter and tap straight into the battery compartment will I have to break the plastic to get the wires? (iam guessing that's so but just want to check before i damage it)

cheers icon_biggrin.gif
Written on: 10.06.2009 15:45
Saturnus
Posts: 2556
Max skrev:

Emilius skrev:

Max,

I don't think there is such thing as a 120v AC battery. If there is, it's probably a 12 or 24 volt DC battery with an inverter (a device that lets you plug a mains socket into it). Also keep in mind that we use 220~230v AC in Europe.

Inverters are pretty inefficient. This means you will get much less out of your battery than you could otherwise.

A much better solution would be to check the battery compartment of your ghetto blaster, and try to come up with a solution where you're pretty much just plugging in a better battery. If it uses 8 D-cells, you're in luck, because at 1.5 volts each, this adds up to 12 volts, which is about what a car battery can supply.

If this is the case, all you need to do is pull a wire from the plus side of the battery, to the plus side of the battery compartment (where the last cell dimple goes) and a wire from minus to the other end. This has worked for us before, albeit with a pussy boombox and 2 liberated 6 volt roadworks batteries.


Hey Emilius (or anyone with some advice)

I checked the ghetto blaster and it takes 10 x D so needs 15V to run. Is my only option to use a 24V battery or can an inverter output 230V AC from a 12V battery? Either way does anyone know a good place in CPH to pick one up at a reasonable price?

The battery compartment consists of springs on plastic so if i want to scrap using an inverter and tap straight into the battery compartment will I have to break the plastic to get the wires? (iam guessing that's so but just want to check before i damage it)

cheers icon_biggrin.gif



Try it straight on a car battery first, it'll probably work fine but have a slightly lower output, meaning the power will be 50% lower (from 30 Watts to 20 Watts as an example) that mean about 1.21 dB which is barely audible.

Remember a car battery is only nominally 12V, it will really be 13.5V fully charged and 10.5V when almost fully discharged. Likewise alkaline batteries are only nominally 1.5V, they usually measure between 1.1V and 1.3V under load (read: in use), that's why you can replace 1.5V batteries directly with 1.2V rechargable ones without any difference because it's just the open voltage that differs, the load voltage is about the same (1.2V rechargable batteries have this voltage under load during 90% of it's lifecycle, starting at 1.65V fully charged and rapidly dropping to 1.2V which it then holds).

In short, 10 1.5V standard batteries in serial does not equal having to use a 15V power source, a stable 12-13V source is more suitable, and that's just what a car battery is as long as you keep it from discharging more than 50%.
Written on: 10.06.2009 16:02
Max
Posts: 92
Saturnus wrote:

Max wrote:

Emilius wrote:

Max,

I don't think there is such thing as a 120v AC battery. If there is, it's probably a 12 or 24 volt DC battery with an inverter (a device that lets you plug a mains socket into it). Also keep in mind that we use 220~230v AC in Europe.

Inverters are pretty inefficient. This means you will get much less out of your battery than you could otherwise.

A much better solution would be to check the battery compartment of your ghetto blaster, and try to come up with a solution where you're pretty much just plugging in a better battery. If it uses 8 D-cells, you're in luck, because at 1.5 volts each, this adds up to 12 volts, which is about what a car battery can supply.

If this is the case, all you need to do is pull a wire from the plus side of the battery, to the plus side of the battery compartment (where the last cell dimple goes) and a wire from minus to the other end. This has worked for us before, albeit with a pussy boombox and 2 liberated 6 volt roadworks batteries.


Hey Emilius (or anyone with some advice)

I checked the ghetto blaster and it takes 10 x D so needs 15V to run. Is my only option to use a 24V battery or can an inverter output 230V AC from a 12V battery? Either way does anyone know a good place in CPH to pick one up at a reasonable price?

The battery compartment consists of springs on plastic so if i want to scrap using an inverter and tap straight into the battery compartment will I have to break the plastic to get the wires? (iam guessing that's so but just want to check before i damage it)

cheers icon_biggrin.gif



Try it straight on a car battery first, it'll probably work fine but have a slightly lower output, meaning the power will be 50% lower (from 30 Watts to 20 Watts as an example) that mean about 1.21 dB which is barely audible.

Remember a car battery is only nominally 12V, it will really be 13.5V fully charged and 10.5V when almost fully discharged. Likewise alkaline batteries are only nominally 1.5V, they usually measure between 1.1V and 1.3V under load (read: in use), that's why you can replace 1.5V batteries directly with 1.2V rechargable ones without any difference because it's just the open voltage that differs, the load voltage is about the same (1.2V rechargable batteries have this voltage under load during 90% of it's lifecycle, starting at 1.65V fully charged and rapidly dropping to 1.2V which it then holds).

In short, 10 1.5V standard batteries in serial does not equal having to use a 15V power source, a stable 12-13V source is more suitable, and that's just what a car battery is as long as you keep it from discharging more than 50%.


Sorry mate, so are you saying if i use it straight on a car battery the power will be 50% lower therefore inaudible ruling out the option of a car battery?

If not, how much play time do you think i would get from the battery before it was 50% discharged? and is there anyway to slow the process apart from a solar panel?
Written on: 10.06.2009 16:07
Saturnus
Posts: 2556
Max skrev:

Sorry mate, so are you saying if i use it straight on a car battery the power will be 50% lower therefore inaudible ruling out the option of a car battery?

If not, how much play time do you think i would get from the battery before it was 50% discharged? and is there anyway to slow the process apart from a solar panel?


No, it's the other way around ... I think I made that perfectly clear when I even explained how different batteries work?!

10 1.5V standard alkaline batteries _IS NOT_ 15V ... it's closer to 13V in use and therefore a car battery that is more than 50% charged will be exactly the same ... even if the car battery nears full discharged you'd hardly notice any difference in volume.
Written on: 10.06.2009 16:18
DarkCity
Posts: 162
Ups Max!
Come Roskilde you better bring an apple to camp og something. You just pissed the teacher of icon_smile.gif
If Saturnus say jump, you don´t ask how high but rather how he would like the landing! Heheh

Don´t feel bad, we are all pre-padawans next to master saturnus! icon_biggrin.gif

[This article was edited 1 times, at last 10.06.2009 at 16:22.]
Written on: 10.06.2009 16:25
Max
Posts: 92
Saturnus wrote:

Max wrote:

Sorry mate, so are you saying if i use it straight on a car battery the power will be 50% lower therefore inaudible ruling out the option of a car battery?

If not, how much play time do you think i would get from the battery before it was 50% discharged? and is there anyway to slow the process apart from a solar panel?


No, it's the other way around ... I think I made that perfectly clear when I even explained how different batteries work?!

10 1.5V standard alkaline batteries _IS NOT_ 15V ... it's closer to 13V in use and therefore a car battery that is more than 50% charged will be exactly the same ... even if the car battery nears full discharged you'd hardly notice any difference in volume.


Ok, got ya. How much play time do you think i would get then? and do you recommend a place in CPH for car batteries?
Written on: 10.06.2009 17:53
Saturnus
Posts: 2556
Max skrev:

Saturnus skrev:

Max skrev:

Sorry mate, so are you saying if i use it straight on a car battery the power will be 50% lower therefore inaudible ruling out the option of a car battery?

If not, how much play time do you think i would get from the battery before it was 50% discharged? and is there anyway to slow the process apart from a solar panel?


No, it's the other way around ... I think I made that perfectly clear when I even explained how different batteries work?!

10 1.5V standard alkaline batteries _IS NOT_ 15V ... it's closer to 13V in use and therefore a car battery that is more than 50% charged will be exactly the same ... even if the car battery nears full discharged you'd hardly notice any difference in volume.


Ok, got ya. How much play time do you think i would get then? and do you recommend a place in CPH for car batteries?


It's impossible to say without measuring the power consumption ... it could be anything from 10 to 100 hours on a car battery but going by a good guess would be 20-30 hours and not much more from fully recharged to fully discharged. Harald Nyborg is the cheapest place I know selling car batteries but Silvan and T.Hansen has them too at a reasonable price.
Written on: 10.06.2009 18:49
Max
Posts: 92
Saturnus wrote:

Max wrote:

Saturnus wrote:

Max wrote:

Sorry mate, so are you saying if i use it straight on a car battery the power will be 50% lower therefore inaudible ruling out the option of a car battery?

If not, how much play time do you think i would get from the battery before it was 50% discharged? and is there anyway to slow the process apart from a solar panel?


No, it's the other way around ... I think I made that perfectly clear when I even explained how different batteries work?!

10 1.5V standard alkaline batteries _IS NOT_ 15V ... it's closer to 13V in use and therefore a car battery that is more than 50% charged will be exactly the same ... even if the car battery nears full discharged you'd hardly notice any difference in volume.


Ok, got ya. How much play time do you think i would get then? and do you recommend a place in CPH for car batteries?


It's impossible to say without measuring the power consumption ... it could be anything from 10 to 100 hours on a car battery but going by a good guess would be 20-30 hours and not much more from fully recharged to fully discharged. Harald Nyborg is the cheapest place I know selling car batteries but Silvan and T.Hansen has them too at a reasonable price.


Cheers mate, great help.
Written on: 10.06.2009 18:59
Max
Posts: 92
DarkCity wrote:

Ups Max!
Come Roskilde you better bring an apple to camp og something. You just pissed the teacher of icon_smile.gif
If Saturnus say jump, you don´t ask how high but rather how he would like the landing! Heheh

Don´t feel bad, we are all pre-padawans next to master saturnus! icon_biggrin.gif


Haha! Yeah, I was just glad to get out of there alive!
Written on: 11.06.2009 11:08
Markus Myhre
Posts: 8
@CoffinCamp We're at E-60.

The Kristiansand-peeps are around 30ish most of them. The camp in general is from 20-45 years, so diverse crowd icon_smile.gif
Written on: 11.06.2009 12:29
Ace > The Coffin Camp
Posts: 395
Well I'll swing by anyway icon_smile.gif
I'm the only one from Christianssand, and I'm 24. Our camp consists of people between 19 - 26. Hehe
Written on: 11.06.2009 15:46
Markus Myhre
Posts: 8
The Coffin Camp skrev:

Well I'll swing by anyway icon_smile.gif
I'm the only one from Christianssand, and I'm 24. Our camp consists of people between 19 - 26. Hehe


Bring some chilled Tuborg in your portable stereofridge!
Written on: 11.06.2009 17:02
Ace > The Coffin Camp
Posts: 395
there will always be beer in the stereofridge during the festival icon_smile.gif
Written on: 12.06.2009 12:30
ThokN
Posts: 77
@Sune:

We recieved the amplifier from V-bgro today, but he forgot to include the aluminium enclosure. Did you buy one from him? And if not, what will you do then? I've found some enclosures at elextra.dk, but they are pretty expensive. We can't wait for V-bro to send the enclosure, coause we are going to finish the build today hopefully.
Written on: 12.06.2009 12:51
Sune
Posts: 37
@ThokN
No I didn't, wasn't aware he sold enclosures as well. How much did you pay for it?
I was just planning to mount the amplifier under some kind of cover, haven't thought that much about it yet. Still waiting for my speakers etc., they aren't being shipped till later today icon_frown.gif

By the way, you mentioned a potentiometer in an earlier post. Could you give a link to which one you have purchased?
Written on: 12.06.2009 13:33
ThokN
Posts: 77
Sune skrev:

@ThokN
No I didn't, wasn't aware he sold enclosures as well. How much did you pay for it?
I was just planning to mount the amplifier under some kind of cover, haven't thought that much about it yet. Still waiting for my speakers etc., they aren't being shipped till later today icon_frown.gif


We paid 7euros for it, so it was cheap. But we've found this at elextra.dk for 98kr (They have a store at Frederiksborggade 42 in Copenhagen) and are going to the shop to buy it in a couple of hours:
http://elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H16164

The bonus is that there are holes pre-drilled in the bottom that fits the screw-holes of the Amp6-Basic perfectly!

Sune skrev:

By the way, you mentioned a potentiometer in an earlier post. Could you give a link to which one you have purchased?


We haven't bought one, since I got 2 from my school. But they are at 10K and 100K, so I'm not sure how well they will work. If they don't, we will buy this:

http://elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H13810

which as far as I know should be pretty much ideal. (Maybe get one pf these too: http://elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H16725 or something similar.)

[This article was edited 1 times, at last 12.06.2009 at 13:35.]
Written on: 12.06.2009 14:09
Saturnus
Posts: 2556
ThokN skrev:

The bonus is that there are holes pre-drilled in the bottom that fits the screw-holes of the Amp6-Basic perfectly!



Yup. That's the one I use too ... plenty of spare room for wires and even a 10KuF 15V cap fits in there (the cap makes the bass even more "firm" and "tight").

[This article was edited 1 times, at last 12.06.2009 at 14:10.]
Written on: 12.06.2009 14:13
Sune
Posts: 37
Thanks, I'll have a look at those and consider whether or not we should install one in our unit.
Written on: 12.06.2009 14:15
Saturnus
Posts: 2556
Sune skrev:

Thanks, I'll have a look at those and consider whether or not we should install one in our unit.


You don't need to but those enclosures are watertight and acidproof, so if you use it with a car battery then even if you have acid spills you won't ruin the amp.
Written on: 12.06.2009 14:32
Sune
Posts: 37
Saturnus skrev:

You don't need to but those enclosures are watertight and acidproof, so if you use it with a car battery then even if you have acid spills you won't ruin the amp.


Was primarily the potentiometer I was thinking about. If the enclosure is 100% closed, won't it then easily get very hot in there when the boomer is playing for a long time and the weather (hopefully icon_smile.gif) is very hot?
Written on: 12.06.2009 17:11
Saturnus
Posts: 2556
Sune skrev:

Saturnus skrev:

You don't need to but those enclosures are watertight and acidproof, so if you use it with a car battery then even if you have acid spills you won't ruin the amp.


Was primarily the potentiometer I was thinking about. If the enclosure is 100% closed, won't it then easily get very hot in there when the boomer is playing for a long time and the weather (hopefully icon_smile.gif) is very hot?


Oh, I thought you knew that while you're at Brinck, get a double-sided self-adhesive thermal pad. Stick that between the chip and the enclosure and you the whole enclosure acts as a heatsink, as well as insulting the chip from the cabinet which is vital. Done that way, and the internal temperature might in worst case scenario get 2-3 degrees above ambient temperature.

The pots you choose depends on the gain setting you have, if you've followed my advice with 15K and 100K Ohm resistors as input and feedback, a 150K Ohm logirithmic pot is optimal but a 100K Ohm will do. A 10K Ohm on the other hand will hardly be noticable.


E-mail
Password
Remember me
Copyright belongs to Roskilde Festival
Information can be used in private and non-commercial matters, only.