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Create your own festival stereo
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Written on: 02.05.2012 21:44
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Anders
Posts: 3
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Okay. so i want to build a long lasting portable sound system. I have been lurking around this thread for some time now and i think i have got the idea. These are the components i want to use: 2X http://www.hoejttalerbutikken.dk/product.asp?product=41 2X http://www.hoejttalerbutikken.dk/product.asp?product=824 1X http://www.thansen.dk/product.asp?c=6901003718&n=-1156714473&pn=-1156714424 1X http://shop.41hz.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=43&catid= 1X solar panel(still looking around for a good one) The only problem is that i have absolutely no idea how electronics work. I have tried(and failed) to understand what to do. Could somebody please help me make a circuit drawing? Please tell me if i got the components wrong. And please tell me if you know where i an get a cheap small solar panel that could keep this running. |
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Written on: 02.05.2012 22:41
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Kasper Lund
Posts: 6
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Anders wrote: Okay. so i want to build a long lasting portable sound system. I have been lurking around this thread for some time now and i think i have got the idea. These are the components i want to use: 2X http://www.hoejttalerbutikken.dk/product.asp?product=41 2X http://www.hoejttalerbutikken.dk/product.asp?product=824 1X http://www.thansen.dk/product.asp?c=6901003718&n=-1156714473&pn=-1156714424 1X http://shop.41hz.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=43&catid= 1X solar panel(still looking around for a good one) The only problem is that i have absolutely no idea how electronics work. I have tried(and failed) to understand what to do. Could somebody please help me make a circuit drawing? Please tell me if i got the components wrong. And please tell me if you know where i an get a cheap small solar panel that could keep this running. Get some hp10w's instead and build a boominator or a half boominator if the budget is tight.. you can find the wiring for such a box in this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/104402-boominator-another-stab-ultimate-party-machine-274.html#post3008613 regarding how to connect the things: If you got no skills in electronics what so ever, you might be better of getting the assemebled version of the amp6b. The kit you linked needs to be soldered and if you havent tried this before the final testing of your board might be challenging (yet very rewarding when it works) +- goes to the +- on the battery, then you got a l,l+,r-,r+ and thats pretty straight forward.. connect these to your terminals on your speakers on either side.. The only tricky part is you might need to make a crossover filter for your speaker setup in order to "mix" the frequencies of your horn and the driver you linked above.. (if you build the boominator this is not needed). Then there is the jackstick on the amp and hmm - you know how to connect that  If i were you i would just go for the boominator! It is a tested setup, you don't need to calculate your box volume, port dimensions etc, and last but not least! - the connection of your speaker setup to the amp6b is very straight forward. The solar panels can be found in may shapes from ebay! just get some with around 17-18v open loop voltage rated at 10-20W. |
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Written on: 03.05.2012 01:21
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Anders
Posts: 3
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Get some hp10w's instead and build a boominator or a half boominator if the budget is tight.. you can find the wiring for such a box in this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/104402-boominator-another-stab-ultimate-party-machine-274.html#post3008613 regarding how to connect the things: If you got no skills in electronics what so ever, you might be better of getting the assemebled version of the amp6b. The kit you linked needs to be soldered and if you havent tried this before the final testing of your board might be challenging (yet very rewarding when it works) +- goes to the +- on the battery, then you got a l,l+,r-,r+ and thats pretty straight forward.. connect these to your terminals on your speakers on either side.. The only tricky part is you might need to make a crossover filter for your speaker setup in order to "mix" the frequencies of your horn and the driver you linked above.. (if you build the boominator this is not needed). Then there is the jackstick on the amp and hmm - you know how to connect that If i were you i would just go for the boominator! It is a tested setup, you don't need to calculate your box volume, port dimensions etc, and last but not least! - the connection of your speaker setup to the amp6b is very straight forward. The solar panels can be found in may shapes from ebay! just get some with around 17-18v open loop voltage rated at 10-20W. I actually chose these parts because they where a lot cheaper than those in the boominator. But i sounds like i will be a lot easier for me if i just follow that design. Do you know what page the instructions are on? i dont really feel like going through 272 pages. [This article was edited 1 times, at last 03.05.2012 at 01:22.] |
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Written on: 03.05.2012 10:07
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Ruslabox
Posts: 72
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Anders wrote: Okay. so i want to build a long lasting portable sound system. I have been lurking around this thread for some time now and i think i have got the idea. These are the components i want to use: 2X http://www.hoejttalerbutikken.dk/product.asp?product=41 2X http://www.hoejttalerbutikken.dk/product.asp?product=824 1X http://www.thansen.dk/product.asp?c=6901003718&n=-1156714473&pn=-1156714424 1X http://shop.41hz.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=43&catid= 1X solar panel(still looking around for a good one) The only problem is that i have absolutely no idea how electronics work. I have tried(and failed) to understand what to do. Could somebody please help me make a circuit drawing? Please tell me if i got the components wrong. And please tell me if you know where i an get a cheap small solar panel that could keep this running. 17Ah will last about one day at medium volume with that setup. I suggest looking for some heavier batteries, if you take some time to research you can easily find cheaper and longer-lasting solutions. Try DBA for instance. |
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Written on: 03.05.2012 10:21
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Saturnus
Posts: 2556
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Ruslabox wrote: Anders wrote: Okay. so i want to build a long lasting portable sound system. I have been lurking around this thread for some time now and i think i have got the idea. These are the components i want to use: 2X http://www.hoejttalerbutikken.dk/product.asp?product=41 2X http://www.hoejttalerbutikken.dk/product.asp?product=824 1X http://www.thansen.dk/product.asp?c=6901003718&n=-1156714473&pn=-1156714424 1X http://shop.41hz.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=43&catid= 1X solar panel(still looking around for a good one) The only problem is that i have absolutely no idea how electronics work. I have tried(and failed) to understand what to do. Could somebody please help me make a circuit drawing? Please tell me if i got the components wrong. And please tell me if you know where i an get a cheap small solar panel that could keep this running. 17Ah will last about one day at medium volume with that setup. I suggest looking for some heavier batteries, if you take some time to research you can easily find cheaper and longer-lasting solutions. Try DBA for instance. What are you talking about? An amp6 uses about 2300mW into a pair of 8 ohms speakers at FULL volume. That is not an estimate, it is a measured fact! So a 17Ah battery, assuming we only drain to about 80% so that we don't damage the battery will last about 90 hours at full volume. [This article was edited 1 times, at last 03.05.2012 at 10:22.] |
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Written on: 03.05.2012 11:22
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Anders
Posts: 3
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Saturnus, from what i can understand you are the one who invented the "boominator". Would the components i choose be good, or would it be better if i just stopped being so greedy and bought the parts you use? Allso, do you have some kind of drawing on how how to connect the things. Allso would this be a good solar panel: http://stratosol.dk/product/monokrystalinsk-solpanel-12-volt-50-wp-137/ With this regulator: http://stratosol.dk/product/phocus-laderegulator-cm-04-31/ |
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Written on: 03.05.2012 16:27
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Kasper Lund
Posts: 6
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Anders wrote: Saturnus, from what i can understand you are the one who invented the "boominator". Would the components i choose be good, or would it be better if i just stopped being so greedy and bought the parts you use? Allso, do you have some kind of drawing on how how to connect the things. Allso would this be a good solar panel: http://stratosol.dk/product/monokrystalinsk-solpanel-12-volt-50-wp-137/ With this regulator: http://stratosol.dk/product/phocus-laderegulator-cm-04-31/ at least it is very expensive  - i thought you were greedy  you can find alot cheaper solutions on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=solar+panel+12v&_sacat=See-All-Categories you don't need a regulator if your solar panel is not rated for alot of power.. The reason for this is that the solar panel will more or less act like a current source when loaded. If you connect a battery in parrallel with the solar panel the battery will thus reduce the voltage of the solar panel to the operating voltage of the battery. |
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Written on: 03.05.2012 16:34
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Saturnus
Posts: 2556
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You can use whatever you like. The only thing I say is that if follow my design the recommended drivers are the cheapest and only drivers that will give any GOOD result. As soon as you change any part of the design in any way, you have opted to stray away from perfection, whether you can accept the outcome is up to you but when you're going to spend money, why not spend a little more, and get the optimum result. |
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Written on: 11.05.2012 02:29
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Ingenarme
Posts: 3
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Hello audiophiles *cough*Saturnus*cough*, I've decided on building a boominator-esque speaker for this years Roskilde. I've read about the first 30 pages of this thread and the boominator post on diyAudio, but i stil have a few things i would like to clear up. 1) I'm planning on using 2 HP-10W's, since my budget doesn't allow 4, so, should i use the original boominator size of 30x30x90, or is there a more optimal size for 2 HP-10w's ? 2) Piezo's, I'm planning on just 2, but which ones should I go for ? I've narrowed it down to a choise between these two: https://www.elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H19399 - 34DKK - and http://www.dlt.dk/products/productinfo.aspx?ProductID=5107&MenuItemID=230 - 69DKK - I've really come to enjoy this forum, and have all respect for Saturnus et al and their seemingly unlimited patience, thank you all for being so great ! Simon EDIT: URL tags doesn't seem to work, does anyone know how to fix them ? [This article was edited 2 times, at last 11.05.2012 at 02:32.] |
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Written on: 11.05.2012 09:15
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Ruben
Posts: 69
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If you're only using 2 HP-10W you should use 2 piezos. The first ones you link to have been tried by Phaedras from this forum, and he said they sounded alright. Basically they are also just a replica of the recommended piezo KSN-1005A from Motorola. You're goind with half the speakers - use half the boominator's size, i.e. building a half boominator. I've have done that once with okay results but you should could get better. If you look at the boominator you should make only one side with the speakers back to back, but you should make a middle bracing with no holes to seperate the two enclosures - then put a bass reflex port for each enclosure. Here's how I did it, although you have to do the middle bracing without holes. http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=1803f5f8e694ae0d75fa5879e0c49e00 Each HP-10W should go to its own channel. [This article was edited 1 times, at last 11.05.2012 at 09:16.] |
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Written on: 11.05.2012 11:14
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Ingenarme
Posts: 3
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That looks nice! I suppose it's 30*30*45 ? and an internal volume of ??? Theoretically, how much volume and sound quality would i miss out on by making it 30*15*90 and having the speakers on one side ? I'll probably be going with your design though, it looks very good and sturdy! Simon |
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Written on: 11.05.2012 12:02
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Saturnus
Posts: 2556
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It's actually 300x300x500mm. Remember that you can't split the electronics compartment in the middle. And technically you have to correct for the missing holes in the center brace so you have to make the speaker part 5mm longer. Though a half-boominator with the speakers on both sides looks quite odd, and isn't optimal. It's a far cry better than having it cut down the middle with the speakers on one side. |
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Written on: 11.05.2012 20:52
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Ingenarme
Posts: 3
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oh yes of course, that makes sense. What is the internal dimensions supposed to be in each driver compartment? I ask because I don't know whether I'll be using 12, 15, or 18 mm plywood yet. also, what should the dimensions on the bass reflex port be ? I noticed that in the SketchUp model they share a single circular port, is that still considered the best way to go about it ? Thank you both for the patience, I sincerely appreciate it ! Simon [This article was edited 1 times, at last 11.05.2012 at 20:54.] |
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Written on: 12.05.2012 11:39
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Saturnus
Posts: 2556
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I haven't made a sketch-up of the half-boominator, so I'm not sure what you're referring to. The port on the original is 34cm2 = 66mmØ if you make it round. You need 2 ports instead so that's 47mmØ. Still same length of 36mm. |
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Written on: 12.05.2012 16:09
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Ruben
Posts: 69
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Saturnus wrote: I haven't made a sketch-up of the half-boominator, so I'm not sure what you're referring to. The port on the original is 34cm2 = 66mmØ if you make it round. You need 2 ports instead so that's 47mmØ. Still same length of 36mm. You won't risk the port to be whistling with a diameter of 47 mm using a 10" woofer? It just seems kind of small, but then again the number of speakers in each enclosure is cut in half. |
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Written on: 14.05.2012 16:12
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Camp Balloon
Posts: 24
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Hi again, I have another question I would like some input on. Since we are going with two boxes, then we need to make a decision on how to wire the boxes. The equipment: Box 1: Contains Amp6b, two HP10W and two PHT-407N (And crossover(s)) Box 2: Contains two HP12W. We want to able to carry around the primary box(box 1) with the amp and then connect it with box 2, when more output is needed. And after doing some research I was thinking of these two possible solutions. 1. Wire the two HP10W's in parallel and the two PHT-407N in series on a passive crossover on left or right channel on the amp. Then box 2 will be connected on the other channel when needed. 2. Wire one HP10W and one PHT-407N(with crossovers) on each channel and when needed connected one HP12W in parallel with a HP10W's on each channel. So the load on the amp should be 4ohm from the two drivers and the 8ohms from the tweeter on each channel(With a passive crossover). Option 1: Will leave us without stereo and even when connected to box 2, then there's no sound above 3Khz, so this will probably sound really bad and going mono is not a good option either. Option 2: I've tried to find some conclusive material on this, but if I understand it correctly, it's possible, but we could wind up having muddy sound, even though the HP10W and HP12W are almost identical(Besides the cone area) What are your recommendations on this? And is there an even better third option? |
